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HOW-TO: Install Leather Shift Knob for PowerShift™ 6-Speed Transmission

36K views 44 replies 20 participants last post by  JLfiesta 
#1 · (Edited)
Welcome to the second in my series of Fiesta How-To articles (and maybe a video). Today we'll cover replacing the polyurethane shift knob for the Powershift 6-speed Transmission with a leather shift knob to either dress up your S and SE, or to match the factory leather wheel in you SES/SEL.

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Here's the Ford part numbers you'll need:

  • Shift Knob: 8G1Z-7213-A (This will show up as being for a Taurus X and Montego. Don't worry, it'll work fine.)
    [*]Approx. Price: $9.67​
  • Knob Screw: W701894S446 (These are sold in batches of 4 only. Go figure.)
    [*]Approx. Price: $5.50ea, total $22.00​
  • Chrome Shroud: 9E5Z-7213-AA (I'd call this optional. Save yourself the money on this. In the tutorial, I'll show you why.)
    [*]Approx Price: $73.90​
  • Workshop Manual pages 307-05-2 through 307-05-5 (But let's face it, my tutorial has way more information than this. It was a decent basis, but required a lot of exploratory searching)

Here's the tools you'll need:

  • T-20 Torx Screwdriver
  • Slotted screwdriver (preferably thin and wide)

===========================

Let's get started.

First, here's what you get with the shift knob only. You'll note the shift knob DOES come with a chrome lower shroud, which is why I say the $80 shroud is optional. I also say it's optional because the diameter of the shroud is a couple millimeters less than the Fiesta. You can see the results in the final photo. If you can live with this, then save yourself the cash, In my opinion. $80 isn't worth a couple millimeters.


New Leather Knob by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Now, here's the before, showing the stock polyurethane knob.


Before (Old Polyurethane Knob) by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 1: Removing the upper console housing:

First, pop off the chrome trim ring. This should come off easily. if it resists, try using a stiff plastic card, such as a pilfered room key from your trip to Hawaii or a store loyalty card… something that isn't important if damaged.

Next, place your car in neutral and engage the parking brake. With firm pressure, lift up on the lower part of the housing towards the bottom of the shift lever. Keep popping and pulling the snaps out until the faceplate is free, as shown below. Disconnect the harness(es) for the ambient lighting and heated seats (if equipped).


Step 1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Once removed, you should see this:


Step 1 Complete by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 2: Removing the Chrome Shroud:

Removing the chrome trim ring will most likely be a destructive process due to the retaining clips fore and aft of the shift knob. Hard way: try a putty knife and attempt to work plastic without damage. Easy way: a thin and wide slotted screwdriver to pry the clips out. I took the easy way.


Step 2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Now, the two T-20 Torx screws are exposed.


Step 2 Complete by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 3: Removing the Shift Knob:

One of the easier steps, use a T-20 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws on the left and right sides of the knob.


Step 3 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 4.1: Accessing the wiring:

First, pop off the left side of the center console, pulling on the end closes to the driver's seat. You don't need to completely remove this, just enough to access the internals.


Step 4.1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 4.2: Accessing the wiring:

Lift up on the upper console housing enough to expose the location of the harness. In the picture below, you'll note the locations of the wiring harness, and the wire retaining clip.


Step 4.2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 5.1: Removing the Harness:

Removing the harness is quite tricky due to its location (at the tip of my finger). However, the harness is on a slide clip, so slide it forward to free it from its holding area.


Step 5.1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 5.2: Disconnecting the harness:

With the harness free, you can disconnect the transmission control cable here.


Step 5.2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Step 5.3: removing the retaining clip:

One last retaining clip, wedged deep within (see step 4.1). Your best option here is to use a long, thin slotted screwdriver to pry this loose.


Step 5.3 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Reassembly:

By this point, you've done all the work. All that remains is to slide on the new shift knob, ensuring the wires don't get pinched, and feed the cable back down into the housing.

If your fingers are dextrous enough, you can reattach the retaining clip and slide the wiring harness back onto its clip, or you could place them neatly back within the housing.

Secure the shift knob using the two new T-20 Torx screws, and slide the chrome shroud up until it locks into place.

Next, start your car and ensure the gear lever shifts smoothly and that the transmission control button functions.

Reseat all appropriate trim panels, stow your tools, remove all trash and clean the area as appropriate. You're finished. This is what you'll end up with:


Aftermath by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Completed by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Leather Steering Wheel finally (and properly) paired with Leather Shift Knob by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Now, at the beginning, I mentioned the small gap created by the difference in diameter between the two shrouds. Here's a shot showing what it will look like. You can decide if you can live with it, or spend the $80 to make it gapless:


Gap by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr

Thank you all for reading, and good luck!

(I maxed out the post length at EXACTLY 10,000 characters, woot!)
 
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16
#3 ·
Thanks! I will be attempting this mod next week, when my parts arrive. I ordered my parts from Tasca, and I was able to buy the screws individually.

Part Number: 8G1Z7213A
Part Description: Shift knob Leather
Quantity: 1
Price: $6.38

Part Number: W701894S446
Part Description: BOLT
Quantity: 2
Price: $3.04ea

Subtotal was $12.46 plus $10 shipping (no tax) to WA state, for a grand total of $22.46.

I am going to do my best to not damage the original shroud. Wish me luck! If you have any detailed photos of how the shroud attaches, or any advice on how to get it off safely, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
#8 ·
Thanks! I will be attempting this mod next week, when my parts arrive. I ordered my parts from Tasca, and I was able to buy the screws individually.

.....
I am going to do my best to not damage the original shroud. Wish me luck! If you have any detailed photos of how the shroud attaches, or any advice on how to get it off safely, I would greatly appreciate it.
Hey Sean, did you ever do your gear shift install? How did it go? I've ordered mine and will be installing it soon. Just trying to see more examples (although these instructions above are great).
 
#7 ·
Great write up!

I have a new 2011 right hand drive Fiesta (Thailand) can anyone comment if there will be any issues with this mod...other than the overdrive button being on the opposite side of the lever?

This is no big deal to me, just wondering if any wire routing issues or anything!
Thanks!
 
#9 ·
Sorry about not replying sooner...

It looks like the Asian models use the same lever as the NA models, just with the european housing. In theory, all the wiring should be the same, though if the connector is different, you may need to splice two wires (no big deal). The only difference for you should just be the disassembly of the center console.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Dirtyblueshirt vs. Ford Service...and the winner is

Welcome to the second in my series of Fiesta How-To articles (and maybe a video). Today we'll cover replacing the polyurethane shift knob for the Powershift 6-speed Transmission with a leather shift knob to either dress up your S and SE, or to match the factory leather wheel in you SES/SEL.
I had my guys at Heiser Ford in Milwaukee do the shift lever install.

What did they use?

A. The official Ford service manual only.
B. Dirtyblueshirt's guide as a back-up reference.
C. Started with official Ford docs but resorted to completing the job with Dirtyblueshirt's "how-to-do-it (correctly)" guide and even used a print copy for a checklist.
D. Didn't need no stinkin' help.

Answer: (c)
 
#11 ·
I had my guys at Heiser Ford in Milwaukee do the shift level install.

What did they use?

A. The official Ford service manual only.
B. Dirtyblueshirt's guide as a back-up reference.
C. Started with official Ford docs but resorted to completing the job with Dirtyblueshirt's "how-to-do-it (correctly)" guide and even using a print copy for a checklist.
D. Didn't need no stinkin' help.

Answer: (c)
That makes me happy :D
 
#13 ·
Thank you for the instructions and great pictures. I got bullied into trying this as my first mod. Hopefully the parts will arrive in a couple weeks and I can have it in with little trouble.
 
#19 ·
Here's what I learned in the process:

1. Only two screws are needed. Tousley sells them in packs of four so you only need one pack.
2. Disconnect your battery when doing this. When a door is open and the car is off and in neutral it will keep chiming. After about 10 minutes of this you're going to want to kill something.
3. The transmission cable takes some serious force to get off. Get some pliers and make it much easier.
4. You can re-use the original chrome shroud if you use two putty knives at once to pry it down.

Thanks for the guide! It really does look like it came from the factory this way!
 
#22 ·
telero and I will be putting mine in on Sunday. :D Hoping all goes well.
We did install it and it did go well. Thanks to DBS's instructions, which are perfect!

Now to address others' experiences:
I did my install today and was able to use the original shroud. I took 2 high quality steel putty knifes, used one on the front and one on the back and pushed them in and twisted and it seperated very nicely with no damage.
Two putty knives worked great. We were able to get that chrome shroud separated without damage rather easily.

Here's what I learned in the process:
1. Only two screws are needed. Tousley sells them in packs of four so you only need one pack.
2. Disconnect your battery when doing this. When a door is open and the car is off and in neutral it will keep chiming. After about 10 minutes of this you're going to want to kill something.
3. The transmission cable takes some serious force to get off. Get some pliers and make it much easier.
4. You can re-use the original chrome shroud if you use two putty knives at once to pry it down.
1. We had a package with only 2... they will sell you just 2.
2. Unnecessary. Put your key in the ignition and turn it as far as you can without starting the car. Put the car in Neutral, parking break on, close the door, and then open it. The beeping stops after less than 30 seconds.
3. The transmission cable is hard to remove at every step. Needle-nose pliers are handy for removing it from its original position, removing the white cable-holder fastener, and putting it back into place.
4. Yep!
 
#23 ·
  • Knob Screw: W701894S446 (These are sold in batches of 4 only. Go figure.)
  • Approx. Price: $5.50ea, total $22.00

Step 5.1: Removing the Harness:

Removing the harness is quite tricky due to its location (at the tip of my finger). However, the harness is on a slide clip, so slide it forward to free it from its holding area.
Not sure where you bought your screws from, but Tousley will do individual screws. If you search their site for the part number, it is for qty. 1, so 2 can be added to the cart. actual price was about half of MSRP.

Also, when sliding forward, that means towards the rear of the car...to the right while looking in from the driver side. I found that it was fairly easy to get clipped back on when the new knob was installed.


I did my install today and was able to use the original shroud. I took 2 high quality steel putty knifes, used one on the front and one on the back and pushed them in and twisted and it seperated very nicely with no damage.
We used two putty knives and slid them between the shroud and the knob on the driver and passenger sides rather than front/back. Easier to get leverage this way and still popped the shroud off with no damage.


Just to confirm, you need 2 screws right? Looking at Tousley's site, they seem to sell them individually, but don't want to get halfway through a shifter installation and not have enough. That's kind of essential to driving the car. :)
I noticed this also...available individually from the Tousley site. No need to order more than the two needed...4 screws would cost nearly as much as the shift knob.



Here's what I learned in the process:

1. Only two screws are needed. Tousley sells them in packs of four so you only need one pack.
2. Disconnect your battery when doing this. When a door is open and the car is off and in neutral it will keep chiming. After about 10 minutes of this you're going to want to kill something.
3. The transmission cable takes some serious force to get off. Get some pliers and make it much easier.
4. You can re-use the original chrome shroud if you use two putty knives at once to pry it down.
1. We had a package with only 2... they will sell you just 2.
2. Unnecessary. Put your key in the ignition and turn it as far as you can without starting the car. Put the car in Neutral, parking break on, close the door, and then open it. The beeping stops after less than 30 seconds.
3. The transmission cable is hard to remove at every step. Needle-nose pliers are handy for removing it from its original position, removing the white cable-holder fastener, and putting it back into place.
4. Yep!
To add to what Audrey said:
1. Tousley website sells them each...did you call or try the site? I've never seen anything about a 4 pack anywhere.
2. I know the chime stopped fairly soon. I think it was because we turned the key off or removed it from the ignition after getting the transmission out of park.
3. Needle nose pliers definitely helped here. Audrey also has small hands, so that may haven been of some use.
4. Prying from the sides seemed to work best for us.
 
#28 ·
I was very happy to see I received my parts from Tousley!

I opened the box and was treated with the nice leather wrapped Auto shifter...

below is my order from Tousley...

Part Number..........Part Description...........QTY......Price..........Total
8G1Z7213A...........Leather 2008 - 200.......1.........$7.98.........$7.98
W701894S446.......BOLT..........................2........ $3.30.........$6.60
Sub Total.........................................................................$14.58
Shipping...........................................................................$15.00 < doh
Total...............................................................................$29.58

Everything appears ok...



Wait a minute....


Someone is really sad... Only 1 Bolt = No project completion :(
 
#32 ·
Just learned about this through another thread and searched for it. Though I was hoping for a better looking shift knob. I personally do not like the look of this knob.

However, this thread has helped me because my next mod is going to need to know how to take this apart. Thanks for the write-up!
 
#33 ·
Sorry if this has already been asked, but is this something a dealer/service dept could or would install for me (someone with NO mechanical inclinations whatsoever)?
 
#34 ·
Maybe. That isn't really the purview of this thread since it's intended for do-it-yourself. This isn't really a mechanical or difficult upgrade. The only hard part is removing the center console's facing, which is mildly unsettling the first time you do it.
 
#38 ·
The only thing that you might wanna consider is the very remote chance that if you don't connect the new knob wiring correctly, you're dead in the water. The only other unnerving thing (as has been mentioned) is that the snap connectors holding the various trim pieces in place sometimes break, rather than unsnap.
 
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