Welcome to the second in my series of Fiesta How-To articles (and maybe a video). Today we'll cover replacing the polyurethane shift knob for the Powershift 6-speed Transmission with a leather shift knob to either dress up your S and SE, or to match the factory leather wheel in you SES/SEL.
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Here's the Ford part numbers you'll need:
Here's the tools you'll need:
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Let's get started.
First, here's what you get with the shift knob only. You'll note the shift knob DOES come with a chrome lower shroud, which is why I say the $80 shroud is optional. I also say it's optional because the diameter of the shroud is a couple millimeters less than the Fiesta. You can see the results in the final photo. If you can live with this, then save yourself the cash, In my opinion. $80 isn't worth a couple millimeters.
New Leather Knob by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Now, here's the before, showing the stock polyurethane knob.
Before (Old Polyurethane Knob) by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 1: Removing the upper console housing:
First, pop off the chrome trim ring. This should come off easily. if it resists, try using a stiff plastic card, such as a pilfered room key from your trip to Hawaii or a store loyalty card… something that isn't important if damaged.
Next, place your car in neutral and engage the parking brake. With firm pressure, lift up on the lower part of the housing towards the bottom of the shift lever. Keep popping and pulling the snaps out until the faceplate is free, as shown below. Disconnect the harness(es) for the ambient lighting and heated seats (if equipped).
Step 1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Once removed, you should see this:
Step 1 Complete by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 2: Removing the Chrome Shroud:
Removing the chrome trim ring will most likely be a destructive process due to the retaining clips fore and aft of the shift knob. Hard way: try a putty knife and attempt to work plastic without damage. Easy way: a thin and wide slotted screwdriver to pry the clips out. I took the easy way.
Step 2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Now, the two T-20 Torx screws are exposed.
Step 2 Complete by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 3: Removing the Shift Knob:
One of the easier steps, use a T-20 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws on the left and right sides of the knob.
Step 3 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 4.1: Accessing the wiring:
First, pop off the left side of the center console, pulling on the end closes to the driver's seat. You don't need to completely remove this, just enough to access the internals.
Step 4.1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 4.2: Accessing the wiring:
Lift up on the upper console housing enough to expose the location of the harness. In the picture below, you'll note the locations of the wiring harness, and the wire retaining clip.
Step 4.2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 5.1: Removing the Harness:
Removing the harness is quite tricky due to its location (at the tip of my finger). However, the harness is on a slide clip, so slide it forward to free it from its holding area.
Step 5.1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 5.2: Disconnecting the harness:
With the harness free, you can disconnect the transmission control cable here.
Step 5.2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 5.3: removing the retaining clip:
One last retaining clip, wedged deep within (see step 4.1). Your best option here is to use a long, thin slotted screwdriver to pry this loose.
Step 5.3 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Reassembly:
By this point, you've done all the work. All that remains is to slide on the new shift knob, ensuring the wires don't get pinched, and feed the cable back down into the housing.
If your fingers are dextrous enough, you can reattach the retaining clip and slide the wiring harness back onto its clip, or you could place them neatly back within the housing.
Secure the shift knob using the two new T-20 Torx screws, and slide the chrome shroud up until it locks into place.
Next, start your car and ensure the gear lever shifts smoothly and that the transmission control button functions.
Reseat all appropriate trim panels, stow your tools, remove all trash and clean the area as appropriate. You're finished. This is what you'll end up with:
Aftermath by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Completed by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Leather Steering Wheel finally (and properly) paired with Leather Shift Knob by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Now, at the beginning, I mentioned the small gap created by the difference in diameter between the two shrouds. Here's a shot showing what it will look like. You can decide if you can live with it, or spend the $80 to make it gapless:
Gap by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Thank you all for reading, and good luck!
(I maxed out the post length at EXACTLY 10,000 characters, woot!)
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Here's the Ford part numbers you'll need:
- Shift Knob: 8G1Z-7213-A (This will show up as being for a Taurus X and Montego. Don't worry, it'll work fine.)
[*]Approx. Price: $9.67 - Knob Screw: W701894S446 (These are sold in batches of 4 only. Go figure.)
[*]Approx. Price: $5.50ea, total $22.00 - Chrome Shroud: 9E5Z-7213-AA (I'd call this optional. Save yourself the money on this. In the tutorial, I'll show you why.)
[*]Approx Price: $73.90 - Workshop Manual pages 307-05-2 through 307-05-5 (But let's face it, my tutorial has way more information than this. It was a decent basis, but required a lot of exploratory searching)
Here's the tools you'll need:
- T-20 Torx Screwdriver
- Slotted screwdriver (preferably thin and wide)
===========================
Let's get started.
First, here's what you get with the shift knob only. You'll note the shift knob DOES come with a chrome lower shroud, which is why I say the $80 shroud is optional. I also say it's optional because the diameter of the shroud is a couple millimeters less than the Fiesta. You can see the results in the final photo. If you can live with this, then save yourself the cash, In my opinion. $80 isn't worth a couple millimeters.
New Leather Knob by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Now, here's the before, showing the stock polyurethane knob.
Before (Old Polyurethane Knob) by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 1: Removing the upper console housing:
First, pop off the chrome trim ring. This should come off easily. if it resists, try using a stiff plastic card, such as a pilfered room key from your trip to Hawaii or a store loyalty card… something that isn't important if damaged.
Next, place your car in neutral and engage the parking brake. With firm pressure, lift up on the lower part of the housing towards the bottom of the shift lever. Keep popping and pulling the snaps out until the faceplate is free, as shown below. Disconnect the harness(es) for the ambient lighting and heated seats (if equipped).
Step 1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Once removed, you should see this:
Step 1 Complete by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 2: Removing the Chrome Shroud:
Removing the chrome trim ring will most likely be a destructive process due to the retaining clips fore and aft of the shift knob. Hard way: try a putty knife and attempt to work plastic without damage. Easy way: a thin and wide slotted screwdriver to pry the clips out. I took the easy way.
Step 2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Now, the two T-20 Torx screws are exposed.
Step 2 Complete by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 3: Removing the Shift Knob:
One of the easier steps, use a T-20 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws on the left and right sides of the knob.
Step 3 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 4.1: Accessing the wiring:
First, pop off the left side of the center console, pulling on the end closes to the driver's seat. You don't need to completely remove this, just enough to access the internals.
Step 4.1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 4.2: Accessing the wiring:
Lift up on the upper console housing enough to expose the location of the harness. In the picture below, you'll note the locations of the wiring harness, and the wire retaining clip.
Step 4.2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 5.1: Removing the Harness:
Removing the harness is quite tricky due to its location (at the tip of my finger). However, the harness is on a slide clip, so slide it forward to free it from its holding area.
Step 5.1 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 5.2: Disconnecting the harness:
With the harness free, you can disconnect the transmission control cable here.
Step 5.2 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Step 5.3: removing the retaining clip:
One last retaining clip, wedged deep within (see step 4.1). Your best option here is to use a long, thin slotted screwdriver to pry this loose.
Step 5.3 by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Reassembly:
By this point, you've done all the work. All that remains is to slide on the new shift knob, ensuring the wires don't get pinched, and feed the cable back down into the housing.
If your fingers are dextrous enough, you can reattach the retaining clip and slide the wiring harness back onto its clip, or you could place them neatly back within the housing.
Secure the shift knob using the two new T-20 Torx screws, and slide the chrome shroud up until it locks into place.
Next, start your car and ensure the gear lever shifts smoothly and that the transmission control button functions.
Reseat all appropriate trim panels, stow your tools, remove all trash and clean the area as appropriate. You're finished. This is what you'll end up with:
Aftermath by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Completed by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Leather Steering Wheel finally (and properly) paired with Leather Shift Knob by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Now, at the beginning, I mentioned the small gap created by the difference in diameter between the two shrouds. Here's a shot showing what it will look like. You can decide if you can live with it, or spend the $80 to make it gapless:
Gap by dirtyblueshirt, on Flickr
Thank you all for reading, and good luck!
(I maxed out the post length at EXACTLY 10,000 characters, woot!)