Best intake?

[breon]

+1 for Boesch Built. Great design that uses the factory grille "scoop". I'm installing mine this weekend.

[Rob T]

Just got my Boesch today. Hoping to install it this weekend as well.

[s0x]

where can I buy the boesch online?

[telero]

Originally Posted by s0x

where can I buy the boesch online?

Ebay
eBay My World - boeschbuilt

2011 2012 Ford Fiesta cold air intake system, BoeschBuilt 1.6L powdercoated | eBay

[s0x]

Originally Posted by telero

Ebay
eBay My World - boeschbuilt

2011 2012 Ford Fiesta cold air intake system, BoeschBuilt 1.6L powdercoated | eBay

thanks a lot!

[justafiesta]

Originally Posted by telero

Ebay
eBay My World - boeschbuilt

2011 2012 Ford Fiesta cold air intake system, BoeschBuilt 1.6L powdercoated | eBay

I'm kinda skeptical of this intake. Litterally it's a k&n filter with a metal box around it, that has the tiny oem fresh air tube hooked to flow into a half open box.

Now don't get me wrong, it looks attractive and k&n cone filters almost always sound amazing. But. You draw hot air from the engine compartment as a side is missing from the box. It's not sealed. And the tiny amount of Ir that comes thru that oem air tube from the grill, is pretty much useless mixed with hot engine bay heated air (the oem tube can't supply enough air thru it I take it or the box would be sealed?).

What's the performance increase over just putting a cone filter on it? It uses the oem intake pipe which does not but slow air down, so some of the benefit of the k&n filter is lost.

Just doesn't seem to me to be the best option.

Convince me otherwise please.

[TJK.40]

I happen to like the BoeschBuilt design and was very tempted to buy this intake, but I don't like the K&N filter.

I'm searching for a dry filter instead of a wet gauze, because of the better filtration efficiency.

[Captainmorbid]

I'm sure the K&N could be swapped for a dry filter in the Boeschbuilt. In fact, if you ask Matt he'd likely swap it for a dry element for ya.

[BRGT350]

The Steeda intake is a cone filter in a box that is not sealed, the FSWerks is a cone filter on a tube with a plate blocking hot air, the Injen and AEM are cone filters on a longer tube, and the stock filter is a flat panel in a box.


While I have not done any testing to back up my theory, but I am guessing the hot air behind the headlight is very minimal. The hottest part of the engine compartment is the zone above the header near the top of the cowl. The Boesch intake does use a hose connected to the bumper intake to feed cool air to the air box and flush out any warm air. The FSWerks intake is more open, which would prevent trapped hot air inside the box since no box exists. The air inlet at the bumper is where the factory air box receives all of its air. With the FSWerks, Boesch, and Steeda intakes, the inlet from the bumper can flush out any stagnet warm air that would be around the filter. I still highly doubt any would want to be there since heat likes to rise. The main heat sources in the engine compartment are behind the radiator in the form of moving hot air, radiant heat from the engine block, and radiant heat from the header. Forward motion and the fan produce an air current that will push hot radiator air towards the back of the engine compartment. At a stop, the heat will want to rise in the zone between the engine and the radiator. This rising heat will contact the hood, and move back to the cowl due to the angle of the hood. Radiant heat from the engine itself heats the air and components around the bock. The aluminum head and brackets will absorb the heat being given off from the cast iron block. Those items receive air flow while the car is moving and reduce surface temps in the process. The heat energy removed from the block and surrounding components rises to the highest point under the hood, near the cowl. Finally, the header gives off a great deal of radiant heat. Some of which is sucked out of the engine compartment under the car given the pressure created. The remaining heat rises to join the rest of the hot air at the rearmost upper section of the hood. The zone behind the headlamps is given a constant stream of ambiant air due to gaps around the housings and hood. The air flow would remove stagnet hot air and replace it with cooler air. The bumper inlet also removes any stagnet air around the filter. Since the air filter is not placed at the warmest spot, but rather a cooler region, I don't see how any of these filters would be sucking in hot air. I have used an air intake that placed the filter to the upper rear of an engine compartment, and the performance was horrible. The results from a long tube CAI and the Boesch/Steeda/FSWerks style have been outstanding. When idling for long periods in hot conditions, the long tube and Boesch/FS/Steeda intakes suffer no loss in throttle response.


All of the intakes have some limitations and design constraints. The very best Fiesta intake I have seen is on the Fiesta R2's, which is a sealed box with a conical filter and a hose connected to the bumper. Last time I checked, it was vastly more expensive than the other options on the market. I do think that a sealed box with conical filter and inlet tube on the bumper is the best option. To create this type of intake, large amount of tooling is needed to produce the plastic housings since fabrication out of aluminum is very pricey and labor intensive. Such an intake could be made from hand laid carbon fiber, but at a huge cost. Given the ungodly small aftermarket for the Fiesta, I would say that the intakes we have on the market are very good.

Concerning just putting a conical filter on the car, it is not that easy to do. The MAF housing is part of the factory airbox, so you need a way to hook a filter to it. You need an adapter to connect the MAF sensor to a peice of tubing that will accept the filter. You can do this with an aluminum adapter like Steeda and Boesch, or with a new section of pipe like FSWerks, AEM, Injen. The MAF ID needs to match exactly the factory ID or else doom happens. You then need a method to secure the filter in place. Steeda and Boesch use a box secured to the factory air box mounts to house the filter in place. FSW uses the heat sheild, and AEM and Injen use studs and vibration mounts. The mounts need to allow for movement of the engine. Steeda and Boesch use the factory convuluted tube to do the moving. Injen and AEM use rubber mounts, which I have broken off due to vibration, stress, and impacts. All of these intakes have compromises, but are all good options.

[Captainmorbid]

Listen to BRGT, he knows his stuff!