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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, here is the beginning of my nitrous build thread. Installed some lovely blue Taylor Thundervolt wires today. Also installed a Boomba racing fiesta st throttle body spacer. The bolt pattern is the same but the tivct manifold has bumps that need to be shaved down with a knife to make the spacer work. I put the nozzle into the spacer and then taped the holes so I dont create an air leak before attaching the lines. More to come!
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Did more on the car today. Had to figure out where to put the nitrous management unit and decided the engine hook was a good place to weld a bracket. Also put a tap into the fuel rail for supplying fuel to the nitrous kit and then painted it.
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Discussion Starter #3
Got my order from FSWERKS yesterday. Green Filter and some Brisk spark plugs. I'll be installing the plugs soon, here is the filter. I drilled a few holes in the front of the airbox for a little extra flow.

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Discussion Starter #4
Installed the tank in the trunk today, I'll figure out routing the lines soon. Took about 40 minutes to get everything positioned and bolted up properly. And there was an exhaust shield in the way underneath the car. If you do this, be careful not to drill too close to the fuel tank, it's right under the trunk.
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Discussion Starter #5
I installed the nitrous supply line through the trunk and under the car today. Didn't take pictures because it's not all that exciting. Took about 40 minutes again to route everything properly and get the hose out of the way with zip ties. Manufacturer of the kit says "installs in two hours" but I call horse$*&t
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is a far away and closeup pic of the nitrous management unit. I hooked up the nitrous line to the back of the unit and attached the fuel line as well. The fuel line is ready to be attached to the modified rail, which I'll hopefully be installing this weekend. The purge line can also sort of be seen hanging behind the left side of the engine. I need to figure out where I'm going to mount the purge solenoid. All fittings have been secured using loctite. More pics to come soon.
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What’s the dial o. The right directly across from the arm switch?


2014 Ford Fiesta SE Hatchback
Cold Air Intake
OBX Header with high-flo cat, resonator, and DC Sports muffler and 2.5” exhaust
N2MB Two Step
FRPP Suspension
17” Focal with 205/45s
3M Dark Smoke Vinyl Wrapped Lights
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The control knob for the throttle lag eliminator (JMS Pedalmax) You can dial it in between 0 and 100 percent to adjust for things like bumper to bumper traffic when you don't want the car to be as jumpy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Needed to tap into a power source to supply keyed 12v power to the nitrous system and purge kit. Because I have an S (as base model as it gets) my fuse box (CJB behind the glove box) was very empty. I found a source where fuse 14 would have been which is supposed to supply power to a remote start module (if I had one). I made a jumper the size of the leg of a fuse and plugged it into the hot side of the fuse 14 location. Zip tied the jumper to a nearby piece of the harness to avoid pulling it out and VOILA, I now have a power source! I'll be putting in an inline fuse to protect the nitrous equipment. Now I have to connect the wires from the switches to the jumper wire I added. More to come soon!
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Discussion Starter #12
Been working on wiring. I mounted the purge solenoid and wired it. It shares the ground with the nitrous management unit. I put split loom on all of the wires and wrapped them in tape. I made a hole in the firewall and fished the power wires through. Also got a 120 piece set of low temp solder butt connectors that melt when heated with a heat gun.
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Discussion Starter #13
interior wiring is buttoned up, you can hear the purge solenoid clicking when I press the button meaning I have good power and ground! Wiring was the worst part of this job, so happy that it's over. Making everything blend in and look seamless is a lot of work!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Installed a set of Brisk ROR14LGS plugs today. One heat step down from stock to accommodate the added heat of nitrous.
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I ran the Brisk plugs that replaced stock plugs about 4 years ago. Did very well for about 25,000 miles. When I get my nitrous kit, I’ll be running these plugs.


2014 Ford Fiesta SE Hatchback
Cold Air Intake
OBX Header with high-flo cat, resonator, and DC Sports muffler and 2.5” exhaust
N2MB Two Step
FRPP Suspension
17” Focal with 205/45s
3M Dark Smoke Vinyl Wrapped Lights
 

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68 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
My plugs were quite dirty, seems to be running nicely with the new plugs but I swear it's idling higher and I have absolutely no idea why.
 

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My plugs were quite dirty, seems to be running nicely with the new plugs but I swear it's idling higher and I have absolutely no idea why.
My 1.0 did the same when I replaced the plugs. My guess is the ECU was compensating for any gunk on the plugs and when they're clean that compensation causes a higher idle. After a few days it returned to normal on its own.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I swear the acceleration is dramatically better with fresh plugs! Now I'm having a low beam issue, booooo. Checking out the wiring diagrams from identifix to try to figure out why I keep blowing out fuse 10. Update to come soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Update, fuse 10 is the right-hand body control module supply circuit. When I was under the dash putting a jumper into the central junction box I got angry at the glove box light and ripped it out of the car because it was staying on. Apparently the exposed wires were shorting causing the fuse to blow 🤦‍♂️ I taped them up, put in a new fuse, and voila! Headlight is staying on. More adventures to come.
 

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Calm yourself


2014 Ford Fiesta SE Hatchback
Cold Air Intake
OBX Header with high-flo cat, resonator, and DC Sports muffler and 2.5” exhaust
N2MB Two Step
FRPP Suspension
17” Focal with 205/45s
3M Dark Smoke Vinyl Wrapped Lights
 
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