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The 1.0 and Fiesta ST share the same Degas tank so about a month ago I replaced mine with Mishimoto's aluminum tank. I cut the quick disconnect off the turbo return line (it was indeed becoming brittle), got a 3/8 to 5/8 barbed adapter from Amazon and hooked it all up to the tank with a short piece of 5/8 heater hose and hose clamped it to the tank. No more quick disconnect! Worked beautifully and haven't had to worry about it anymore. Shop around for the Mishimoto tank (Amazon was cheapest at the time). Its more expensive than the plastic tanks but I think it is worth it.
 

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The 1.0 and Fiesta ST share the same Degas tank so about a month ago I replaced mine with Mishimoto's aluminum tank. I cut the quick disconnect off the turbo return line (it was indeed becoming brittle), got a 3/8 to 5/8 barbed adapter from Amazon and hooked it all up to the tank with a short piece of 5/8 heater hose and hose clamped it to the tank. No more quick disconnect! Worked beautifully and haven't had to worry about it anymore. Shop around for the Mishimoto tank (Amazon was cheapest at the time). Its more expensive than the plastic tanks but I think it is worth it.
Pictures please ?
 

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Here are some dirty engine bay pics I just took. ? The sight tube is close to but not touching the intake tube.
Looks good. I just bought new parts and got them changed but maybe there'll be time for Mishimoto tank someday. Then I'll remember this.
 

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RIP Little Greenie

The engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced and Ford is firm on not covering it under warranty since it has 60,900 miles. We're talking $4000-$5000.

I can't afford it. And I'm still paying it off.

Sad day.
Here is why I am really hating Ford right now! Really, they wont budge on a 900 over? Here are some other questions... You say dealer already had this apart before. When? Was it a long block? Short block? Also that hose that failed is the one recalled. Was yours ever replaced? Also, check out my other posts... you will see I too have had motor failures. Im on my third. Check out Ford's UK site. The folks in the UK are getting taken care of for all of this. Not us!! Another question and I bet I know the answer. Did you get a warning light at all for overtemp??? Bet not. Just your temp skyrocketed after it was too late. The factory gauge is DEFECTIVE in this car. Never works as the manual says it should. Read it. You will get more mad as you realize how much Ford is hosing us all.

Support UK customers. Deny us USA customers. Dont take responsibility for a poor design and defective temp warning indicator...
 

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Alright folks, there are some pretty big differences between the OEM tank and the copies. One major concern was the fittings. Although the lines fit, the barbs were pretty much non-existent. A slight tug and the lines pops off during test. Internally also has baffle differences. The OEM baffle design seems to reduce the ingestion of air bubbles caused by the turbulence from the turbo return line when it's going full tilt. I wonder if the Mishimoto has any sort of internal baffling, or if this is even a concern.

But for those considering knock off tanks, don't risk it.






For the sake of science, and long-term curiosity, I ran the cloned tank under close supervision. Indeed the turbo line popped off during a rapid 1st gear acceleration. From the time the low level coolant light illuminated, to reaching 220F (my personal never exceed threshold) took all of 12 seconds on the datalog. Within that time it dumped a little over a half gallon of coolant. This is no doubt the same result when the fitting fails.

What's concerning is the ECT sensor is at a high point, and with how quickly the coolant empties, it could be reporting a false low reading (little to no coolant in contact with it). It would probably have to get head heat soak before ever triggering a high temp warning light - whatever that threshold is, or if it will even trigger. So by the time the overheat light illuminates, it's way beyond too late. I'd bet that's probably the same time severe spark knock is occurring from such high cyl temps.

So, there's literally seconds the engine must be shut down in order to save it.






I think Ford has a recall out and has been replacing tanks with a low level warning indicator as per this article:
https://www.whatcar.com/news/ford-ecoboost-engine-recall-%E2%80%93-what-you-need-to-know/n17972


For the 1.0L
"According to Ford, the issue was not treated as a safety recall by the Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency because a dash warning light should come on if the car starts to overheat, giving drivers advance warning that there is a problem."

For the 1.6L
"This time, a safety recall was issued in January 2018 to rectify the issue on 15,200 vehicles. The work involves replacing affected parts of the engine and cooling system and adding a coolant level sensor with audible and visual warnings for the driver."






As to why they think the overheat temp warning is sufficient is total BS. It should additionally have a low level warning. Maybe not enough 1.0L's caught fire yet?

BTW, my motor is fine after the experiment. I didn't want to take it above 220 because it'll continue to spike after shutdown. I got coolant back into it within a minute, then recorded how much it needed to bring it back to the full line.
 

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The 1.0 engines in Ford fiesta never had the same coolant pipe that was failing in some early 1.0 Ecoboost engine Ford focus models in UK.

The new recall is only for bigger volume engines not 1.0 Ecoboosts. If I remember correctly it's only for 1.6 and 1.5 liter Ecoboosts (in Focus, Fiesta ST and some other models). They install a low coolant level warning and reprogram the ecu to understand they warning. This is to prevent engine fires when low coolant level and cylinder head cracks and oil gets into wrong place and lights up.
 

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Alright folks, there are some pretty big differences between the OEM tank and the copies. One major concern was the fittings. Although the lines fit, the barbs were pretty much non-existent. A slight tug and the lines pops off during test. Internally also has baffle differences. The OEM baffle design seems to reduce the ingestion of air bubbles caused by the turbulence from the turbo return line when it's going full tilt. I wonder if the Mishimoto has any sort of internal baffling, or if this is even a concern.

But for those considering knock off tanks, don't risk it. For the sake of science, and long-term curiosity, I ran the cloned tank under close supervision. Indeed the turbo line popped off during a rapid 1st gear acceleration. From the time the low level coolant light illuminated, to reaching 220F (my personal never exceed threshold) took all of 12 seconds on the datalog. Within that time it dumped a little over a half gallon of coolant. This is no doubt the same result when the fitting fails.

What's concerning is the ECT sensor is at a high point, and with how quickly the coolant empties, it could be reporting a false low reading (little to no coolant in contact with it). It would probably have to get head heat soak before ever triggering a high temp warning light - whatever that threshold is, or if it will even trigger. So by the time the overheat light illuminates, it's way beyond too late. I'd bet that's probably the same time severe spark knock is occurring from such high cyl temps.

So, there's literally seconds the engine must be shut down in order to save it. I think Ford has a recall out and has been replacing tanks with a low level warning indicator as per this article:

https://www.whatcar.com/news/ford-ecoboost-engine-recall-–-what-you-need-to-know/n17972

For the 1.0L
"According to Ford, the issue was not treated as a safety recall by the Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency because a dash warning light should come on if the car starts to overheat, giving drivers advance warning that there is a problem."

For the 1.6L
"This time, a safety recall was issued in January 2018 to rectify the issue on 15,200 vehicles. The work involves replacing affected parts of the engine and cooling system and adding a coolant level sensor with audible and visual warnings for the driver." As to why they think the overheat temp warning is sufficient is total BS. It should additionally have a low level warning. Maybe not enough 1.0L's caught fire yet?

BTW, my motor is fine after the experiment. I didn't want to take it above 220 because it'll continue to spike after shutdown. I got coolant back into it within a minute, then recorded how much it needed to bring it back to the full line.

dirtbag, thanks for the experiment! As for the mishimoto tank, according to their website it has internal baffling. I wish they had pics to show of it.
 

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Im having the same issue with the hose that runs from the coolant tank to the turbo. Horrible design on fords part Ive replaced 2 already and my thermostat. Now coolant level in the tank keeps going down and no leaks on the ground. My ignition coil went out and fouled out my plug I fixed that and now still dealing with the coolant issue. Does anybody know why coolant keeps disappearing from the tank with no leak that I can see its a 2016 1.0L ecoboost fiesta has 121000 miles. Also oil looks fine no coolant in oil so i know its not a head gasket issue what else should i check?
 
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