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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I was inspired by some of the posts on these forums and pulled the trigger on upgrading my 2015 1.0 Ecoboost Fiesta to Sync 2 with navigation. I'll be writing the guide here on how to do it (to the best of my memory), as well as the sources I used for information.

Here's the beginning part for those who want to collect the parts needed, and I'll work on getting the wiring details up this weekend.

Parts:
APIM + Screen (The screen for Sync 2 is different than Sync 3, so keep this in mind)

FCIM: I don’t know if the part number I have is for the whole assembly or not. You need the whole bezel and vents.

Bracket: D2BZ-18888-A

Top Cover/Trim: D2BZ 58042A82 DA

USB Bracket/Trim: D2BZ-5804567-EA or D2BZ-5804567-EB (Depends on color)

USB Port: HC3Z-19A387-B (Sync 3) or C1BT-14F014-AD (Sync 2)

USB Cable: D6BZ-14D202-A (I think. Please confirm before purchasing. I just used an extension and cut some plugs to make the old one fit.)

Harness plugs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/54P-Female...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
This will make your life MUCH easier than without.

12v Plug: D2BZ-19C149-DC or D2BZ-19C149-DD (Depends on color)

Sync 2 only – Navigation Maps SD Card: Check what the current version is. As of the time of this writing it is Maps Pack A9 for USA/Canada.

Wire: I used 22 gauge wire, though Ford has various sizes listed, this has been working for me.

Female connectors for building APIM plugs: I used a pack of one hundred of DH-PIN/F-P25. (Note these didn't fit the pins like OEM, but I haven't had any issues with them not making a connection. Ford sells connectors, but they are super expensive. If you find a better solution I can update the post with your suggestion.)

Wire Markers (NOT required, but is RECOMMENDED): 12-2210 (I think I used 3 packs), and 12-2211 (I think I used 2 packs). Your amounts may differ since I didn’t use the Harness plugs.

Wire connectors: Whatever works for you. I used something like this: https://www.delcity.net/store/Vinyl...yAvLlB4QWYgZW7sRzYd5DJCWr-LujOtUaAmXkEALw_wcB

Wiring for Sync 2 audio input: If you can find a pig-tail that would be ideal, but I don’t know which one to use. I used jumper wires.

Wiring for Sync 3 USB: Pigtail part # CU2Z-14S411-AA. Jumper wires would likely work in a pinch.

GPS antenna for Sync 3: From what I've read, any Fakra GPS antenna will work.

Laptop for Forscan: An extended license is required http://forscan.org/

OBD2 reader: I got this one.

USB Drive (Sync 2 only): To upgrade non-nav unit to have navigation.

Process:

Wiring info:

Wiring information is very similar to this:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31286

Sync 1 Pin to Sync 2/3 Pin
1 1
3 3
4 4
5 12
6 13
16 19
17 20
21 21
22 22
23 23
24 24
25 25
26 26
37 37
53 53
54 54

Sync 2/3 Pin to component pin
16 Green BCM Plug Splice to 6
17 Green BCM Plug Splice to 7
51 Right Radio Plug 6
52 Right Radio Plug 19
14 Backup Cam Video +
15 Backup Cam Video -
46 Sync 1 Screen Plug 7
47 Sync 1 Screen Plug 10

8 Sync 2 Media Hub 1
9 Sync 2 Media Hub 11
10 Sync 2 Media Hub 9
11 Sync 2 Media Hub 10
28 Sync 2 Media Hub 7
29 Sync 2 Media Hub 8
38 Sync 2 Media Hub 12
or
8 Sync 3 Media Hub 1
38 Sync 3 Media Hub 4

(This should enable the front control panel to work and/or the steering wheel buttons to control audio. If either of these don't work, please let me know and I'll double check my setup)
FCIM (control panel) 7 to FCDIM (old screen plug) 4
FCIM 4 to FCDIM 5

Fitting new bracket:
I didn't take photos of fitting the bracket, but this is where you need to make cuts to make it fit:


After you're done it should look like this:


There are also two "fin" looking pieces that stick up that hold the radio. You'll need to cut those out as well. This will make sense when you take the radio out.

Replacing old USB module with 12v module:
This part is pretty easy. Remove the old one (looks like this):

and replace it with the new 12v Plug: D2BZ-19C149-DC or D2BZ-19C149-DD (Depends on color)

Plug the power supply to the back (the only plug that fits), and you're done with this part!

Fitting new USB module bracket:
I was surprised on this part. There are three holes that just need to have the plastic filler punched out (three circles on the right in the photo). This allows three tabs from your bracket to fit nicely. The center hole is to feed your wires through to the USB port, and the two on the left are for the clips that hold the bracket in place. The two for the clips are the only two that I felt I needed to be semi-careful with.



Insert your USB Bracket/Trim: D2BZ-5804567-EA or D2BZ-5804567-EB (Depends on color). I had to remove mine a few times to shave the clip holes to allow the clips to fit snugly. The new USB plug will click in, but don't do that until you've wired everything up.

Complete APIM wiring and reassembly:
Follow the original USB cable's path through the center console and have your new wires for the USB hub follow the same path. For the USB cable itself, D6BZ-14D202-A is what I think the part number is. Please confirm before purchasing. I just used an extension and cut some plugs to make the old one fit.

I didn't install Sync 3, so I don't know where to put the Fakra GPS antenna. If anyone knows let me know and I'll update here.

To fit the APIM plug behind where the new APIM needs to go, I pulled the hose seen in the second photo above and ran it through that space, then replaced the hose where it belonged.

Plug everything in and check that everything works. The screen will say "Performing scheduled system maintenance," so if you see this don't worry. Check to see that the following works:
Compass, radio, steering wheel controls, 12v power, front control panel (volume knob and such), USB ports, and if you installed Sync 2, check that the SD card reader works.
If these all work, put your car back together because the rest is software driven.

Program with Forscan:
I'm no good at this part, but here are some resources:
http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=836
http://www.compulsivecode.com/Project_AsBuiltCompare.aspx
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt

Add navigation to Sync 2:
Navigation can be added to Sync 2 units that don't already have it. You'll need a maps pack SD card, and to follow these instructions:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/windows-mobile/general/guide-enable-navigation-cars-sync-2-0-t3484473
The first time I tried this it didn't work because the update file I downloaded was no good. If you have the same issue just look for a difference source for the update file.

References will be updated as the guide is being completed:
http://www.fiestafaction.com/forums/threads/53914-Enabling-fog-lights-with-Forscan

http://www.fiestafaction.com/forums/threads/56682-Sync-1-to-Sync-3-conversion-feasability-study-thread
http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=836
http://www.compulsivecode.com/Project_AsBuiltCompare.aspx
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt
https://forum.xda-developers.com/windows-mobile/general/guide-enable-navigation-cars-sync-2-0-t3484473

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31286

I think that's it. I did most of this from memory, so please keep that in mind. I also had the wiring diagram book at my disposal (it was $30 on eBay), which was a HUGE help. If anyone discovers mistakes or better ways to do something in here, please feel free to let me know and I'll update the post.

Enjoy!
 

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Excellent. Patiently waiting for the rest lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Bought the controls/bezel today as well as the connector. Watching the Sync 3 APIMS and screens. Expensive lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Haven't forgot about this. Super busy lately, but I should be able to finish the writeup this weekend.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
 

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Yes, finally a guide for this! Can't wait. Could you also share where the steps and parts might differ between upgrading to Sync 2 or 3? That would be great. Once the guides are rolling in I vote this one to be stickied.
 

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Could you provide a bit more details on the connectors (preferably with pics)?
Which ones have to connect to which? And which ones have to be changed/spliced?
 

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46 Sync 1 Screen Plug 7
47 Sync 1 Screen Plug 10

On this are are talking about swapping pins from the c2383a(APIM) to the c2123(fcdim)?

Also on this...
(This should enable the front control panel to work and/or the steering wheel buttons to control audio. If either of these don't work, please let me know and I'll double check my setup) FCIM (control panel) 7 to FCDIM (old screen plug) 4 FCIM 4 to FCDIM 5

I’m not following because the FCIM connector c2402 doesn’t have pin 7, it’s not used according to protechnician.
 

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Looking through protech and I understand the 46 and 47 pins now, swapping the audio jack since mft and sync 3 don’t use it with the redundant audio control mod and switch. Btw thank you so much for figuring this stuff out. I have a sfe and it irritates me so much that for didn’t offer the 1.0l in the higher trim levels like other places in the world.
 

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46 Sync 1 Screen Plug 7
47 Sync 1 Screen Plug 10

On this are are talking about swapping pins from the c2383a(APIM) to the c2123(fcdim)?

Also on this...
(This should enable the front control panel to work and/or the steering wheel buttons to control audio. If either of these don't work, please let me know and I'll double check my setup) FCIM (control panel) 7 to FCDIM (old screen plug) 4 FCIM 4 to FCDIM 5

I’m not following because the FCIM connector c2402 doesn’t have pin 7, it’s not used according to protechnician.
I haven't been on here in a long while but it looks like you're getting some use out of the guide. Let us know how it goes!

So I got it all wired up, I used a harness add in off amazon to add a backup camera in so it made things easier, I just cut and soldered on it, so only cutting I had to do on my loom is splicing in on the can wires on the bcm connector, added terminals on the rh smaller radio connector, and I spliced the wires from the fdcim and put new terminals on my FCIM connector. I used the as built from a 2019 st-line since it has everything our cars have interior wise plus sync3 and can be optioned with manual trans heater controls and a keyed ignition. Also added nav, already added fogs before and the sunload sensor. I am having a problem with the back up camera but I believe the camera itself is fubar, I’ve ohmed the wires and everything is good so I suppose my camera I got is bad.

I was going to ask you, do you get a network “U” code on the IPC for network not seeing the fdcim? Idk if I don’t have something configured right or what, idk...

btw thank you so much for figuring this out, I’ve wanted this since I bought this car.

Also if anyone else is doing this and you need a apim, radio, and FCIM connector if you pay for postage I can send them to you. I will highly suggest buying the 30 dollar apim backup camera loom, you change 6 wires and add 6 in to it and add a canbus set from the fdcim to the fcim.
 

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Also if anyone else is doing this and you need a apim, radio, and FCIM connector if you pay for postage I can send them to you. I will highly suggest buying the 30 dollar apim backup camera loom, you change 6 wires and add 6 in to it and add a canbus set from the fdcim to the fcim.
Can you provide a link to where you got the correct camera loom? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
haha
Yeah, cutting the dash was the, "Welp, I guess I'm all in now," portion of the project.
Forscan does still tell me it can't detect the FCDIM, but I believe that's because somewhere it still thinks there's a Sync1 FCDIM.
For the camera, has the no camera detected message come up, or does nothing at all happen when you put the car in reverse?
 

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It’s blue screening and coming up as no camera detected, I’m going to pull that harness and look at my factory one to make sure I have a good ground on pin 14 or 15, can’t remember which one it is. Yeah the dash was an all in. I believe the fdcim fault might be from the ipc or the bcm I’ll look at protech this evening and see what terminating modules are on the network and try to rewrite them. If it still doesn’t work ill get an ids and vcm from work and try that way. I know some modules will work but send a network error if they haven’t been factory prerolled or used PMI by ids or fdrs at least that’s what the trucks at the plant do.
 

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Amazing job! I found the tablet install much easier easier and has more practical functionality running both Android and Torque for diagnostic information. I own a 2011 ses
 

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Can it be any Sync 2 Apim/screen combo from ford? Or does it need to be from a fiesta. My 15’ mustang has climate controls thru the screen as well with sync 2. Thanks
 
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