Fiesta Faction banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 14 sfe with a blown head gasket and repaired it. I made my own cam holder and tdc peg, i had to purchase the flywheel holder.

What a convoluted mess.

The cylinder head was repaired at a machine shop. No cracks, just warped .010” and a valve job.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
More photos. I replaced the oil pump belt and timing belt, along with the tensioner and both thermostats.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,260 Posts
Nice to see pics of the tear down. How many miles on the car and how much did you pick it up for if you don’t mind
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I also bought a '14 1.0 with 98,000 on the odometer, the owner said he was driving and it blew the infamous degas hose and died. His mechanic diagnosed bad head gasket and possible cracked head. When I got the car it had no coolant in it and a dead battery. To my surprise it started and ran after I charged the battery. I did a compression test and all 3 cylinders had 125 to 130 psi. I thought this was awesome so i filled the cooling system and cranked it over and it hydro-locked. Pulled the plugs to find coolant in the cylinders. So I pulled the head and had it inspected and tested, they said that it was flat (0.004 out) and held vacuum on intake and exhaust. I figured it warped enough to break the seal of the head gasket then flattened back out when it cooled. I had it milled flat anyway. I bought a head gasket, water inlet tube (Degas tube), overhaul gasket set, timing belt, oil pump belt, serpentine belt, coolant hoses, injectors, coolant overflow tank, thermostats, both water pumps and all of the necessary bolts and other gaskets to to the job. Replaced the head gasket and everything else, torqued to specs, filled with coolant, checked cylinders, looked good no coolant, turned it over and it hydro-locked. I tossed the wrench down and walked inside.

A week later I pulled the head back off and flipped it over then filled the water passages with water and watched as water slowly dripped out of the exhaust, well crap. I took the head back to the head shop and they found a crack right at the edge of the exhaust port where the turbo mounts that they missed the first time. I assume the blown degas tube caused an overheat and cracked the head at the at the exhaust into the water jacket. This explains the good compression and it running with no water, it was getting water in when the exhaust valves opened.

So I bought a new head, installed it and the thing runs great. Its peppy and fun to drive! I have to say that in spite of the frustration of pulling the head twice (a ton of work btw) I think it was well worth it. It wouldn't have been if I didn't get the car for such a good price. Some people are still paying for a car with this damage. I think its nuts that a car this new had a cracked head like that and that so many others are having the same issue but Ford wont help us here in the US out. Ford parts online was surprisingly reasonable (price wise) for all of the parts and somehow had crazy fast shipping, the parts were on my step by 12 the next day every time. The casting numbers are different on the head than the old one, assuming an updated part to correct the issue? The old one had a 5 cast into the exhaust port and the new one has an 11. The date of manufacture on the new one is 2018. Also many of the other parts I ordered were updated part numbers. Here's to hoping that it'll make many more miles.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Nice work! I've been thinking about doing a rebuild over the next few years of a junkyard engine, as I'm on about 82K right now and drive a lot. Is this the kind of thing a learn-as-you-go home mechanic can do, with the help of a machine shop? I agree these things are worth the hassle to keep running - they're way more fun than any economy car has a right to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I've done head replacements and head gaskets before, this was more involved than any others, I think I underestimated the job. Most of my time was spent removing parts to get to the head then reinstalling them. Pretty much all that is left when all is removed is the engine block and the crank and pistons especially if your replace the oil pump belt. I figured I was close enough I might as well replace it. The biggest help was the tool set for setting / maintaining engine timing and a chilton manual (online). The other issue i encountered was a tool for the head bolts. The manual says its a 10... 10 what? I finally discovered that the 10mm polydrive from snapon fit. The 10mm polydrive from autozone did not fit, not sure why, maybe packaged wrong? Knowing how to disconnect / remove fittings and connectors without breaking them was very useful and youtube helped with this some. I did not use the torque multiplier for the crank bolt like it recommends, I just discovered that it calls for a 9:1 multiplier and did the math for the torque and additional turn for final tightening. I did use a half drive ratchet and a cheater and my foot to get the last bit of the final turn after getting it to torque. So without knowing your experience with auto mechanic work I'm not sure if I recommend it or not. I am not a professional mechanic but I do work on classic cars as a hobby so that helped me. Hopefully this gives you an idea and is helpful information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I've done a lot of work on planes over the last few years as a hobby (I helped build one and am helping to restore another now), but my mechanical experience is more in the area of sheet metal and electrical work. Hoping to learn cars with this Fiesta by doing as much of my own work as possible. Doing a brake upgrade next.

By the way, if you're looking for a good short-throw shifter, this unit fits the '14 SFE (but only the '14, not later ones). I added one along with aluminum bushings and I'm really happy with the shifter feel - it's much tighter and more mechanical-feeling than the OEM: CFM Performance Double Adjustable Short Throw Shifter for 2011-2014 1.6L Fiesta (Exc. Fiesta ST) (it says it's only for the 11-14 1.6 but it fits the 14 1.0)
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top