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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If you want to just view the photos used for this guide please look at the album here: FF Spoiler Install

Removing the standard hatchback spoiler and installing a "Euro" style spoiler is quite easy and does not take very much time, tools, or experience with car modifications. You can definitely do this yourself! A few recommendations:
  • Have your Euro spoiler painter by a professional paint/body shop.
  • Check the spoiler for color match, dents, and imperfections before starting to remove the old one.
  • Have someone assist you by holding the flashlight where you need it. Especially while removing/installing the screws that are recessed in the interior of the body of the Fiesta's hatch.
  • Make sure you have all of the tools and bits needed to do this before you start the process.
  • Check that your Euro spoiler includes all parts from the vendor for installation: the spoiler, a wiring extender, and a rubber tube for extending the sprayer.
TOOLS NEEDED
  • T20 Torx Bit and Wrench
  • 7/32" Socket and Wrench
  • 8mm Socket and Wrench (magnetic recommended)
  • Wire Strippers with/and Clamper
  • Electrical Tape
  • Flashlight (recommended)
NECESSARY HARDWARE (if your spoiler doesn't come with it)
Just wanted to answer some questions cause the Boomerang version didn't come with any hardware for me.
  • 18 - 22 AWG wires. Cut to 5" length.
  • 18 - 22 AWG butt connectors. Optional: use ones with heat shrink already on them or find uninsulated connectors and buy a strip of heat shrink.
  • BE8Z-17408-A, Rear Window Washer Hose. Cut to 5" length. Optional: go to an auto parts store and get one.
The wires on my car were 20 AWG. I extended them with 18 AWG I had on hand and bought some heat shrink connectors. Then double wrapped in electrical tape. I only ever want to do this once and it needs to survive many winters. The heat shrink worked beautifully so there's no chance of moisture.

On my 2012 there is 1 inch of washer hose between the spray nozzle and another plastic connector which connects to the main rear hose. I removed the 1 inch section and extended with the 5" washer length. If you don't have that new connector then the OEM hose comes with the connector shown in Audrey's pics for you to use.
REMOVAL OF OLD SPOILER
Note: Keep track of screws and pieces along the way because they are reused for installation of the new spoiler.

1. Start with the T20 Torx wrench and remove the screws on either end of the break light reflector.



2. Detach the electrical connector by pressing on back portion of the tab to release it and then pull back to disconnect it from the reflector.

3. Detach the sprayer by twisting it slightly to loosen it and pull it back away from the reflector to disconnect it.


4. Open the hatch of the Fiesta. Notice the screws on the top part, two on each side along the curved corners closest to where it attaches to the body of the car.



5. Remove the screws with the 7/32" wrench.


6. Notice the two rubber circles near the center of the hatch edge closest to the body of the car. Peel these back easily with your fingers.


7. Look up into the holes to see the screws within. Use the 8mm wrench to remove these screws. Be careful with the final extraction of these screws because you can easily drop them into the interior of the hatch lid.

If you drop them into the hatch lid you need to close and open the hatch until the screw has naturally worked its way to the bottom of the hatch lid. Then pop the plastic interior part at the bottom to release the screws.





8. Close the hatch lid. Pull on the spoiler straight out aggressively. It is only held into place at this point by plastic fasteners. If you've removed computer RAM or a video card before I can equate the experience to that; you have to use a bit more force than you may be comfortable with.



REMOVAL COMPLETE




INSTALLATION OF NEW SPOILER
1. Start extending the sprayer tube by first removing the red tip. Insert that tip into the extension tube provided.



2. Connect the black plastic end of the rubber extension to the car's existing rubber tube.



3. Cut the middle of the wire that has the electrical connector for the brake light. Peel back the electrical tape about an inch and a half on both pieces to reveal the wires.



4. Strip about 1/4" of the wires on each side. They are about size 18 on the wire strippers.



5. Crimp each wire in the extender, making sure to match colors consistently (I used blue to yellow and purple to white). I had to crimp mine several times to be sure it was a snug connection. Gently pull on your wires to be sure they're secure in the extender.


6. Wrap both ends of the wiring extension in electrical tape; I double wrapped. This helps keep moisture or anything else from damaging the electrical connection.


7. Line-up the new spoiler with the holes for the new plastic fasteners.


8. Feed the electrical and sprayer connections through the spoiler. Push the spoiler directly back to fasten the plastic connectors. Apply pressure straight on (horizontally) and be careful not to damage or pinch the electrical wires and sprayer tube you just fed through.



9. Slide the sprayer into place. There is a "+" like plastic piece on the top and a notch on the left side that fits perfectly when it is correctly in place.


10. Fast the electrical connection by just sliding it into place. Put the brake light reflector back into position and secure back into place with the T20 Torx screws.


11. Fasten the two middle 8mm screws in the interior of the hatch being careful not to drop them into the interior cavity of the hatch lid.



12. Fasten the four outer 7/32" screws (see removal step 4 for reference).

13. Close the hatch. Check that the brake light and sprayer are functional. Enjoy your newly improved spoiler!

 

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The photos certainly look comprehensive. I think this'll be a very helpful tutorial. I like how you laid out the tools/parts in a shot or two ... that's something instructors often forget. It's good to get that type of thing in one's mind's eye before embarking on a mod.

Congratulations!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't say I never did nothin' for you guys!

Pictures with words added.
 

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You and Telero should've posed with big smiles on your faces at the end showing off the installation. Oops, forgot, no pcyures of yourself. You're in the witness protection program. :D;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
car forum has car pics.

You and Telero should've posed with big smiles on your faces at the end showing off the installation. Oops, forgot, no pcyures of yourself. You're in the witness protection program. :D;)
Irrelevant self pictures are irrelevant.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is that a Boomerang spoiler? Or is it the Ford Euro spoiler?
Mine is a Ford Euro spoiler purchased from Steeda. These instructions should work for the Boomerang spoiler because it probably uses the pre-existing holes like the Ford one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I ask because my spoiler didn't come with and extension for the washer hose. I still haven't hooked it up yet. Any ideas on how to extend it?
http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u450/audreyality/FF-Spoiler-Install/i-2.jpg
It's just a rubber tube about half an inch in diameter and a black plastic piece (not a specially made thing) that connects it with the original tube on the car. I imagine you can get these things from a hardware store as plumbing pieces or something. I could also see it being useful for people making an aquarium.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Internet Hipster

You and Telero should've posed with big smiles on your faces at the end showing off the installation. Oops, forgot, no pcyures of yourself. You're in the witness protection program. :D;)
Irrelevant self pictures are irrelevant.:rolleyes:
 

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I just did this install today with Audrey's excellent tutorial.

Just wanted to answer some questions cause the Boomerang version didn't come with any hardware for me.

You will need:

  • 18 - 22 AWG wires. Cut to 5" length.
  • 18 - 22 AWG butt connectors. Optional: use ones with heat shrink already on them or find uninsulated connectors and buy a strip of heat shrink.
  • BE8Z-17408-A, Rear Window Washer Hose. Cut to 5" length. Optional: go to an auto parts store and get one.
The wires on my car were 20 AWG. I extended them with 18 AWG I had on hand and bought some heat shrink connectors. Then double wrapped in electrical tape. I only ever want to do this once and it needs to survive many winters. The heat shrink worked beautifully so there's no chance of moisture.

On my 2012 there is 1 inch of washer hose between the spray nozzle and another plastic connector which connects to the main rear hose. I removed the 1 inch section and extended with the 5" washer length. If you don't have that new connector then the OEM hose comes with the connector shown in Audrey's pics for you to use.

Totally worth the money and Ford should have just made this the stock spoiler for North America.
 
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