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I stand updated. I didn't say there was one, just that there must be one.
since this topic is unrelated to the original shifting problem, lets call the whole thing off.
I never dreamed that mentioning a pilot bearing would cause so much trouble.
Wasn't trying to argue or anything, just wanted to make sure accurate info was being posted is all. :)

-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Checked the heat shields under the car a few days ago. Nothing missing or loose. Have not had a chance to take pictures of the linkage. Any thoughts on a bad tranny/motor mount?

Curt
 

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The Steeda rear motor mount is easy to see from under the car. If the bushings had failed or are becoming worn, the urethane should be easy to see as it is bright red. A failed bushing will be torn or seperated around the perimeter. Given the large amount of urethane between the mount body and sleeve on the lower bushing along with the low forces being transmitted, I would doubt the bushing has failed. Since urethane and heat don't get along, the bushing could be softening from radiant heat. However, the bushing is pretty far away from the exhaust. The upper motor mount is located near the coolant bottle on the passenger side.


Untitled by Bryan Redeker BRGT350, on Flickr
 

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Seems to me the thing to do is isolate the shifting components.
Disconnect the shifter, see if it moves freely. disconnect the cable from the transmission, see if it is free, next is the transmission.
Do this when the shifting becomes stiff.
 

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Seems to me the thing to do is isolate the shifting components.
Disconnect the shifter, see if it moves freely. disconnect the cable from the transmission, see if it is free, next is the transmission.
Do this when the shifting becomes stiff.
yeah, looking like that is going to be the best way. The hard part is doing it while everything is warmed up. With the boot/HVAC bezel pulled up out of the way, getting to the shifter cable attaching points will be easy. The transmission one will be harder, but maybe just pulling the air box out will be enough to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Getting to the linkage on the transmission is simple. I should have taken a picture of it last time I had it opened. It's on the front of the transmission. Plenty of room to work. I'm still waiting on the best time to look at it while the problem is occurring.

Thanks guys for giving me some things to look at.

Curt
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Since the last time the problem occurred, I sprayed the linkage pivot points with WD-40 (over a month ago). The problem has not reoccurred. I did get a chance to take a picture of the linkage on front of the transmission. It concerns me that the main linkage piece is rust colored instead of grey like the rest of the parts around the underside of the vehicle.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15448124329/

Curt
 

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Since the last time the problem occurred, I sprayed the linkage pivot points with WD-40 (over a month ago). The problem has not reoccurred. I did get a chance to take a picture of the linkage on front of the transmission. It concerns me that the main linkage piece is rust colored instead of grey like the rest of the parts around the underside of the vehicle.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15448124329/

Curt
That's just because it's cast iron. Nothing to be concerned about there. The pivots for the shifting mechanism are threaded into it. It's just a transfer mechanism/weight. I'd love to get the pretty mountune quick shift for the 5spd to replace it, but no one will ever see it anyway. ;)
 

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I was thinking of just drilling and tapping a new hole closer to the pivot to shorten things up.
I'm in for a brainstorm. I guess it will depend if they left enough material where we would need to move the pivot to. I'll have to see if I have a picture of a mountune and the factory one side by side on here.

Edit: Damn I don't. But There's a mountune one for comparison:



For comparison, I hope wdrsbtr doesn't mind me reposting his photo:

 

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Looks like it needs a piece of metal welded onto that tab where the cable attaches. Then move the pin into that tab.
You're right. It doesn't look like they move the side to side pivot at all and just lessen the spacing of the gears front to back. Hmmm this could make this mod much cheaper. Just need to see about reattaching the ball.

Absolutely zero math done here to calculate the radii but this gives an idea of what I was thinking. Obviously I'd aim closer to the mountune 20% reduction when it came out to actually picking the location. We have to figure out how much forgiveness there is in the location of the cable/bracket to figure out how much we can reduce it without binding.

 

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Sticky Shifter

My 2011 Fiesta has just spent almost a month outside at a Ford dealer waiting for a replacement Powertrain Control Module. I picked it up last night and the first thing I noticed was it was difficult to push or pull the shifter front to back. The car is usually garage kept and driven nearly daily. I'm suspecting something similar is happening although this is totally non-temperature related. Think I'll try the WD-40 solution as nothing else makes any sense at all. This is the same shifter the new car salesman said, "shifts like a knife through butter". It is more like a stick in chewing gum today.
 

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WD-40 helped a little. Still tightens up after reaching normal temp after about 10 miles. I did remove the plastic cover and sprayed the pivot directly. I guess it needs to be reamed out as mentioned by folks on other forums. Its over $100 for a new part. The cabler move freely.
 
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