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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, needed to do a motor swap due to block failure as in a hole in it. Removed the old block and got a used motor that was in an accident. Was told that car still ran. Motor seemed to have and timing cover damage and cracked valve cover. Decided to remove the damaged parts and swap with parts from original motor. Didn’t realize that these cranks spin freely without pulley bolt. I know I need special tools to set timing but is it possible to set if crank pulley has been turned. I’m afraid that it is out of time since I literally can see the rod moving through the inspection hole.
 

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The factory service manual is the only resource that will have the procedure to set the timing. I don’t have a copy but hopefully someone else does here and can post. There are also sites that have digital versions for download. Be sure that the file covers the 1.0 as not all do.
 

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If you took before pictures you can put the crank pulley back on exactly where is was, that’s assuming nothing was moved not even one mm. I’ll post up the procedure in a few hours but you will need to order the 1.0 timing tool set from Amazon to complete the procedure. I bought the set for $100 and it worked fine for me.
 

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If you took before pictures you can put the crank pulley back on exactly where is was, that’s assuming nothing was moved not even one mm. I’ll post up the procedure in a few hours but you will need to order the 1.0 timing tool set from Amazon to complete the procedure. I bought the set for $100 and it worked fine for me.
My only problem with that is that it’s moved. I bought the tool but I’m wondering if it’s ok to rotate the cams by using the nut on the phaser to get them to Tdc and then rotating the crank over to tdc. Would that be the best way to go from here?
 

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Sorry for taking so long but here it is, I take no responsibility if you screw your engine, just relaying info and you can do with it what you want. I am not a trained mechanic and had a really tough time getting any of this to work.

Note: only rotate the engine in Normal direction of rotation( clockwise)

1- for purposes of timing, TDC is piston one on the compression stroke (piston 1 is closest to the timing cover) get piston 1 to TDC on compression stroke

note: remove spark plugs to rotate the engine easier)

2- Remove blanking plug from the rear of the engine block next to the oil pump control solenoid.

3- Install the TDC locating pin. Rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise until the crankshaft stops against the locating pin. (Install flywheel locking tool)

4-position the VVT tools on the ends of the camshaft so that they are pointing vertical (rotate cams if necessary using a box wrench on the box part of the cams)

5-lock the camshafts in position using the special tools once the vvt special tool is pointing vertical.

6- install timing belt

7- remove camshaft locking tools and, TDC timing pin and flywheel locking tool.

8- (most important) Rotate the engine twice in the normal direction and check that the locking tools can still be fitted. If they don’t fit, remove the timing belt and repeat the installation procedure.

This is the best I can do. The last step in the timing is installing the crank pulley (whilst engine is again at TDC) with the hole on the pulley matching up on the timing cover. (AgAin with the flywheel locking tool installed)

Note: it’s possible the TDC locating pin can be installed on the exhaust stroke, unfortunately you won’t know this until you complete the procedure and check the timing. There is one video on YT that may also assist you. If there are any errors in this, please let me know I don’t want anyone jacking up their engine but this is the info that was provided to me and I’m just relaying the information to you. Let me know how it goes!
 

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Hope it’s going good for you. I was able to tear down an old engine to take some pictures. This is the correct configuration of the piston heads when you are at TDC. Number one is TDC, cylinders 2 and 3 appear to be equally low is the block. The other picture of how the timing bolt hits the crankshaft.


809

811
 

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Hope it’s going good for you. I was able to tear down an old engine to take some pictures. This is the correct configuration of the piston heads when you are at TDC. Number one is TDC, cylinders 2 and 3 appear to be equally low is the block. The other picture of how the timing bolt hits the crankshaft.


View attachment 809
View attachment 811
Wow those piston tops are clean. How many miles in that motor?
 

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Hi guys, hopefully this thread is still active. Just want to know how do the main bearings align? I forgot to take a picture when stripping the crankshaft. Do the numbers start from the flywheel to the pulley or is it the other way around?
 

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Hi guys, hopefully this thread is still active. Just want to know how do the main bearings align? I forgot to take a picture when stripping the crankshaft. Do the numbers start from the flywheel to the pulley or is it the other way around?
I have a stripped down block still like in the pictures. The crankshaft and bearings are intact from the factory.What pictures do you need to help you along?

edit: I thought I remember reading in the manual that the main bearings are only serviceable with the use of machining equipment- what kinda setup you got?
 

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I have a stripped down block still like in the pictures. The crankshaft and bearings are intact from the factory.What pictures do you need to help you along?

edit: I thought I remember reading in the manual that the main bearings are only serviceable with the use of machining equipment- what kinda setup you got?
Sorry for the late response, my wife broke my phone. I need pictures of the bottom of the block. I would love to know from which side the 1,2,3,4 bearings start from. Is it the timing belt cover side or the flywheel side.
 
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