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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The only way to know for sure that you need to do this TSB is to have your codes pulled. Look in the TSB reference thread to see if your codes indicate that you need this TSB.

Tools I have used so far, this is only part one:
10mm socket for battery terminal
Flat head screw driver to remove kick panel
Needle nose pliers to pry trim fasteners up
At least 30" of 18ga wire
Heat shrink tubing
Solder Iron
Solder
Diagonal Cutters (pair of dikes)
A light
A lighter
Small mirror (optional)

All of this happens on the driver's side. GN/OR is green with orange stripe, BU/GY is blue with grey stripe, YE/GN is yellow with green stripe.

Disconnect the ground terminal:


Begin pulling up on the weather stripping in the driver's side door and move aside:


Remove this panel (you may have already on accident...):


Pry up on the little white tabs underneath the floor trim with a pair of needle nose, if you pull up on the trim instead you risk damaging the slots that hold the fasteners, there is also one attached to the kick panel you can get to:


Pull out slightly on the kick panel while turning this fastener to the left, I don't know of any way to pry on the white fastener that is underneath this panel, but you may be able to push the panel down and slide it off of the white tab:


Well hey! This looks just like connector C210!:


See that wire harness that goes right by our connector? Pull out on that tab in the bottom of the photo above and you can move it out of the way.

This is the bottom of the connector close up, the wires you are looking for are the GR/OR all the way to the right, the YE/GN all the way left, and the BU/GY second from the left (all wires are on the bottom row):


Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL as to which GN/OR wire you choose on the back end!!! There are two! Find them both and pull on them both and determine which one is closest to the brake pedal side of the connector, as you saw the GN/OR on the visible side is the wire closest to the brake pedal in that row. A small mirror would be a big help in this step. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!

The YE/GN and BU/GY are obvious, they are a twisted pair, just as they are on the front of the connector:


Cut the wires on the visible side:


And on the back side:


Cut 3 9" lengths of 18ga wire. Bypass the connector using these wires by twisting them to each one (did you put the heat shrink tubing on? bet you forgot.) and soldering. Then shrink the tubing. I know, the tubing is thicker than I need, but I tried sliding it, it doesn't budge:


DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK THAT YOU HAVE THE WIRES CORRECT!!! WE ARE NOT HERE TO BREAK MORE STUFF!!!!

Tie strap or tape the wires out of the way if you like, I tucked mine behind the foam.

Remove all white trim fasteners that you have not yet removed. Put them back into your trim panels:


I didn't get specific pics on reassembling the trim panels, it's only slightly tricky getting all of the fasteners to line up properly. Just put the kick panel in first, that one was the most difficult to line up. Then put back the floor trim. Then that last panel that goes between the dash and your door. Press the weather stripping back in starting from the vertical part of the jamb and working your way down and across the floor.

Reconnect your battery, that is unless you will be continuing on to finish the next two tasks of this TSB right now, in that case leave it disconnected. I'm probably done for tonight, it's dark out and taking pics in the dark is no fun.

At this point part one is done, you've bypassed connector C210. Now time to pull the connector on the pedal sensor and then pull the instrument panel cluster. Will follow up when I get those done, and a heads up, the IPC doesn't look very hard at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
In this part you will be swapping two wires in two connectors. Being these wires are the same at both connectors, I WOULD NOT swap one connector and reconnect the battery without swapping the other. I have no idea if it would cause problems but I'm not going to try, and I doubt you want to do that experiment either.

Tools needed for the rest of the job:
7mm socket
Tiny flat head screwdriver
1 small tie strap
Cutting tool for removing a small tie strap.

Disconnect the battery first.

Attached to your accelerator pedal is a black box with an electrical connector going to it. Unplug the connector. Just above the connector is a plastic bracket that holds the wiring to the dash, pull it out to get another couple of inches. Sorry, I did not get pics of the removal of the connector.

Once the connector is out you can pry the white retainer out of it with that handy dandy tiny flat head, it just snaps right off:


You will be swapping the GN/OR and the BU/GY wires. The GN/OR is pin 1, on the outside of the connector, BU/GY is right next to it. Supposedly this makes the signal less vulnerable to electrical noise.

Inside the connector there are little black tabs holding the pins in. You need to gently pry between the tab and the pin while pulling on the wire, be careful not to break the tab:


Swap and re-insert the pins, make sure they go in with the retaining clips pointing the same way they did when they came out:


Put the white retainer back in and reinstall the plug onto the pedal sensor. Push the wire harness fastener back into place to hold the wiring up.

Done with that connector! Now to remove the instrument panel cluster.

Lower your steering wheel as far as it will go. Remove the tab above your odometer using the small flat head, behind it you will find a 7mm hex head screw:


Pull out on this:



There is a rubber cover attached to the panel and the steering column cover, there are two rubber tabs holding it onto the panel. Do not pull forcefully on the tabs to remove them as they tear easily (ask me how I know), instead try to push out on them with the flat head while pulling on them. Once removed you will see there are 2 7mm hex head screws behind it:


Remove all 3 7mm screws and the IPC will slide forward, do not try to remove it just yet as the plug on the back does not have a lot of slack. Look around back and swing the clip holding the plug in down. In the pic, it is not all the way down, you have to swing it further and the plug will come out:


On the plug you will see a tie strap, cut it and remove.

Once out pry between the black and grey parts, the black part will slide out of the grey. Notice that you are trying to pry the grey case off of the little tabs on the sides:


Peel back the tape about 3":


GN/OR (pin 31) is 2nd from the right (there are 32 pins) on this side of the connector, or 2nd from the black tab you pried on earlier:


BU/GY (pin 14) is third from the right (3rd from the black tab) on this side:


Press in on the silver part that is showing through the connector while pulling on the wire to remove it. Remove both of them:
(I also just realized you can see one of the rubber tabs I was talking about, you can also see that I ripped it just a little)


Swap them and re-insert. Make sure that tab is pointing outward in order for the pin to lock into place. Slide the connector back into the grey cover. Re-wrap the tape and replace the tie strap you removed earlier.

Reinstall the connector to the IPC and flip the locking tab up while pushing in on the plug to get it to slide in. Swing the locking tab the rest of the way up into the locked position.

Reinstall the IPC, I assume after removing it you should know how it goes back at this point. The cover below is a bit tricky with the rubber cover and all but you'll get it back, I have faith in you.

A side note, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS TO THE IPC!!! Just get them snug, you aren't going to die in a fiery crash if one comes out but you will crack the plastic if you over tighten.

Reconnect the battery and a few weeks from now you'll realize you haven't seen that stupid engine malfunction light for a while.
 

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Thanks for the offer. I am going to see if the issue recurs on our car, which was reflashed last week. The CEL probably will come on again, in which case I will commit to doing this job. But your explanation was great.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mine has not come back on since doing this. And the day between doing the first part and second parts of this it also did not come on.
 

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m4ick, how's it holding out? No more CEL?

I have to get to some other more pressing wiring work on my 2006 smart this weekend but maybe soon I will be ready to tackle this one.
 

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I'm all over this today, right now! This car has been making me nuts for a full year now. This has happened even while driving during an autocross. Despite this problem I won my class for the year. Go Fiesta!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Could be the grounding issue. Has it had lack of power before? Did you get the codes read previously and were told this was the issue?
 

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So I got the protective headlight relays installed in my smart. I should get onto this one with the Fiesta soon....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Some of these would have weird symptoms because where the batter ground attaches to the strut tower the mount is covered in paint and there is very little conductivity. The solution was to disconnect the ground from the strut tower, sand the paint of the mounting point, sand the copper eye that connects to the mounting point. You should have shiny metal where it grounds, not paint. Re-attach and coat with dielectric grease. This was known to create all kinds of issues with no-starts, shifting problems, check engine lights, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also, I was unable to read my codes with my OBD II reader. I used the actual Ford VCM II with Ford IDS and it just outright told me the TSB I needed to apply.
 

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I didn't realize the ground issue could cause a no start, might be the answer to an intermittent issue I've been have with a 14 Ti pushbutton start car. Have to pull that bolt and clean it up.

Been having good luck with Corrosion X on electrical contacts. My brother sprayed his 13 engine fuse box with the aviation version to prevent the corrosion issues from street grime. The thinker stuff has been great on battery and ground terminals.
 
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